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- #Toyota diagnostic fuse box ox2 fp cco te1 how to
- #Toyota diagnostic fuse box ox2 fp cco te1 install
- #Toyota diagnostic fuse box ox2 fp cco te1 drivers
- #Toyota diagnostic fuse box ox2 fp cco te1 update
- #Toyota diagnostic fuse box ox2 fp cco te1 driver
What you see below pin 4 (inside the ecu) is a transistor. If not, check power at 1 and 2.Īfter that it gets a little hairy. If you are getting power there, in the run position, then you have power to 1 and 2. I would suggest just going to number 3, which is the same pin 4 of connector D that I mentioned previously. In the diagram below, where I have written GAUGE on the left, you have verified that power is coming in on the yellow wire to the top left from the gauge fuse.įrom here you want to make sure you have power all the way to the ECU, which would be points 1, 2, and 3 below.
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If we focus on the check engine light alone (labeled as the malfunction indicator lamp), assuming that it is likely the same issue as the rest of the problems, we can narrow some more facts down. I would say at this point you either are not grounded at the ecu or the main ecu power is not being supplied (transistor switching power probably the b+ terminal) but we can go through the steps to determine that. Ok, cool, you are getting it narrowed down. Can anyone point me in the right direction?Īny other suggestions as to what should I try now?
#Toyota diagnostic fuse box ox2 fp cco te1 how to
I think a good next step would be to check for power directly at the ECU but I am not sure how to do that. Would trying to start the vehicle with one of the white connectors near the ECU disconnected hurt anything? I wrapped them well with electrical tape and re-installed it.
#Toyota diagnostic fuse box ox2 fp cco te1 install
I found one area that must have gotten squished during the install but none of the wires were broken. I also pulled the main harness in to the engine bay again and checked it for damage. I went back through the FSM procedure for removing the engine and verified that I didn't miss any steps when putting it back in. None appeared to be bad but changed them anyway out of an abundance of caution.
#Toyota diagnostic fuse box ox2 fp cco te1 drivers
I've also changed the 15A EFI fuse located in the under hood fuse box, 7.5A Ignition fuse located in the fuse box at the drivers knee, 15A ECU-IG located in the fuse box at the drivers knee. I also have approximate battery voltage at the brass screw in the engine fuse box. If I am reading that right it means that my relay is good.or perhaps doesn't mean anything at all.
#Toyota diagnostic fuse box ox2 fp cco te1 update
I also put a jumper wire from terminal 2 to terminal 4 as suggested here: No Spark Update and with the jumper wire in I still have no CEL. While it was out I tested for power at terminal 2 and have approximate battery voltage. I can also feel the relay click when the key is turned.
#Toyota diagnostic fuse box ox2 fp cco te1 driver
I swapped the EFI relay with the power window one from the driver side kick panel and it didn't change anything. I think that means that the EFI circuit is good but am not certain. I do have approximate battery voltage at that terminal. I've read many "No Start" threads and R Us will ask if there is power at the B+ terminal of the diagnostic connector on the firewall. My fusible link appeared to be good but I changed it out anyway and have 12v at the other end of it. I plugged it in and thought for sure it would fire up but there was no change. I found that the four connectors plugged in to the ECU were fine but I had forgotten one of the white connectors. I pulled the glove box back out and checked the connectors. Based on what I've read since the CEL doesn't illuminate that means I've got no power to the ECU (or is it ECM?) so that is the first place to start. When the key is on the check engine light (CEL) doesn't illuminate at all (if I recall correctly it was working prior to the motor swap). I believe it is an electrical issue somewhere because I've got no spark. I got everything installed back in the vehicle and now can't get it to start. While the head was off I had it completely rebuilt.Īfter pulling the original motor I swapped the accessories and manifolds on to the 1997 due to the minor changes throughout the years. Since the motor was on a stand I figured I would do the head gasket and re-seal the motor as preventative maintenance. Changing the rod bearings didn't fix the issue so I got a low mileage (about 147,000) from a 1997 FZJ80 to put in while I rebuild the original motor. I had a low oil pressure situation that wiped out some bearings.